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   06 Apr 2002                                   

 
  

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Bali, an island streaming with holy water. Sacred lakes and mountain springs shed life-giving water in all directions through narrow, deep river gorges into fertile plains. For over a thousand years, the Balinese have practiced an unique and ingenious system of irrigation called "Subak" and terracing that has allowed them to grow an abundance of rice and support an unusually dense population, and this in turn has given rise to a culture of extraordinary richness and intensity. Most of the rice is grown on the broad plains that descend gently toward the south. On the steep northern slopes facing the Java Sea are large plantations of coffee and cloves. Although life is much harsher in the arid lands of northeast and northwest Bali, most families have at least enough land to grow vegetables and fruits for their own use and to keep ducks, chickens, two or three pigs, and sometimes cow for ploughing, or an calf to fatten the market.

Bali's fame is disproportionate to its size. The island is about 5,600 square kilometers in a nation covering over five million square kilometers. Hindu Bali is the one of 27 provinces of the Republic of Indonesia, the largest Muslim country on earth. Although Indonesia comprises over three hundred ethnic groups and over three thousand populated islands, Bali is the only province that is also at once an island and an ethnic group, and this gives the Balinese a heightened sense of their distinctiveness as they try to find their identity as modern Indonesians. Meanwhile, behind handsome courtyard walls of soft stone, an archaic, spirit-smitten way of life continues.

Bali is society of hamlets clustered around temples. Bali as a culture organism, the villages are its vital organs, and the network of temples its nervous system. The Balinese have a highly detailed religious culture that an order influence and integrates almost every aspect of their life from birth to death, including such aspects as agriculture, architecture and village law.

Balinese Hinduism is vibrant and syncretic. At its most ancient core is animism, bound with threads of tantric Buddhism and ancestor veneration that probably originated in southern China. Numerous Hindu sects found their way to Bali through migrations from classical Hindu Java in the first millenium, bringing the Indian epics, the Ramayana and Mahabharata.

According to Nagarakertagama, an east Javanese chronicle, in the 14th Century Bali was conquered by the Hindu Javanese kingdom of Majapahit, infusing the island with its elegant arts and court culture. When the empire began to collapse in the 16th century, the Javanese priestly aristocracy took refuse in Bali, fleeing the advance of Islam, and Balinese Hinduism underwent a renewal under the inspiration of the priest-poet Dhanghyang Nirartha, also known as Pedanda Sakti Wawu Rauh ( "the newly arrived and powerful high priest" ). Nirartha traveled all over Bali, teaching and establishing many temples. The most famous of these is Tanah Lot.

The Balinese sum up their view of life in three fundamental relationships (also known as Tri Hita Karana): to the spiritual world, to the world of human beings and to the natural world around them. They also believe that these worlds interpenetrated each other, and that it is the responsibility of human being to make sure that this interaction is balanced and harmonious. The Balinese accomplish this through ritual, expressed in the form of religious offerings.

Offerings are composed of food, flowers and confections of fresh palm leaves, cut and pinned in abstract figures, and are offered with incense, spring water, flowers and mantra. The Balinese classify their ritual in five sorts (Panca Yadnya): those for gods, for the spirit of dead body, for the initiation of priests, for the rites passage in the growth of human beings, and for the demons. A complex calendrical system orders the timing of rituals.

Although individual mystic practices exist in Bali, religious devotion is generally a communal affair, and this is the basis of the great cohesiveness of Balinese village life. Every Balinese village has several temples to which all the villagers belong, and in a certain sense a village can be defined as the congregation of a group of temples. Because of this communal responsibility for the care of the gods, a village must maintain its spiritual purity. A strict code of customary law governs the lives of villages to a remarkable degree.

The temples themselves are spaces of holy ground surrounded by walls, with a number of small pavilions for the particular deities to whom the temples are dedicated. Balinese Hinduism has always acknowledged one Supreme Being by various names: the gods are manifestations of the ultimate omnipotent, unknowable God - spirituals energies of nature and deified kings and ancestors - and they are honored with splendid festivals on the temples anniversary.

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