The regency of Tabanan in the west has a turbulent history not unlike that of its neighbors. According to rather hazy accounts, the first Raja of Tabanan, Arya Damar, was appointed by the fallen Majapahit Emperor, who assigned him an extensive kingdom consisting of a large amounts of the lands to the south, Tabanan and Mengwi, in appreciation of his valiant services in subduing the island of Bali.

As the generations went by the warring descendants of this Raja divided the kingdoms and Mengwi was split between Tabanan and Badung in the 17th century.

The death of Raja Ngurah Agung, and consequent cremation in 1903, brought an unexpected turn of events, His cremation, to which the royalty of all other kingdoms were invite, was carried out with traditional "Sutte" rites, the last recorded in Bali, in which the wives of the late Raja followed their husband in death by jumping into the funeral pyre, causing outrage amongst the Dutch.

This was followed by another incident, the plundering of the shipwreck Sri Kumala, in which both men from Tabanan and Badung were implicated. Dutch forces intent on punishment marched on Badung, and a terrible "puputan" resulted. Subsequently they attacked Tabanan, where the Raja and his prince decided to bargain with the Dutch. They were threatened with exile, and put in the Denpasar jail, where both finally committed suicide. Their closest relatives were exiled to Lombok, and the magnificent palace of Tabanan was plundered and razed by the Dutch army.

The Royal Lands, which covered one of the richest rice-growing areas in Bali, were redistributed amongst councils of individual villages, and the regency of Tabanan prospered in general.

From Mount Batukau, Bali’s second highest mountain, covered in dense tropical jungle, the regency stretches in a sweeping panorama of fertile rice fields to a vast expanse of coastline, rocky outcrops interspersed with long sandy beaches.

In dense jungle near the peak of Batukau, at the end of a narrow winding road, lies the ancient mountain sanctuary of the Rajas of Tabanan, Pura Luhur Batukau. Here mythical tigers roam the forest, appearing each year in their spirit form during a trance dance of the temple festival. The ancient temple complex has a number of separate sanctuaries joined by damp mountain paths , a bubbling spring and a large rectangular lake with another shrine in its midst. In the main temple is a single seven-tiered meru to Mahadewa, the deity associated with Batukau, as well as shrines of the three mountain lakes, Bratan, Buyan, and Tamblingan. Built as the state temple of the Kingdom of Tabanan, and ancestral temple of its royal family, it has the distinctive stone shrines or "parasada" of all those temples closely linked with Majapahit influences.

The capital of the regency is a bustling, growing town, with a long main street dominated by shops and tiny restaurants. There is a large central produce market and which appears as if by magic in the evening, filling up an empty street, and is literally rolled away before down.

Once a minor court attached to the Royal family of Tabanan, the village of Kerambitan, just a few kilometers off the main road to the southwest, has two rambling Puri palace complexes. In elegant architectural style, pavilions are laid out in a series of spacious courtyards according to they traditional function. Here regular performances of the Tektekan are held, a stunning creation which derives from the Calon Arang drama of exorcism, complete with realistic trance and fear some kris-stabbing.

A trip in the Tabanan Regency is not complete without a visit to the ancient temple of Tanah Lot. From Kediri the narrow road meanders trough verdant rice fields and quaint little villages to this picturesque sea temple which is perched upon a rocky outcrop surrounded by crashing surf at high tide. Attributed to the influence of the 16th century priest Dang Hyang Nirartha, this rugged rock has been eroded over the centuries by the swirling tides, and the government plans a formidable restoration project in the near future to prevent further damage. Tanah Lot is one of Bali’s six most important temples that are closely related to a number of equivalent mountain sanctuaries.

A tradition of earthenware pottery-making has for centuries kept the villages of Pejaten busy making useful pots, tiles and ornaments from fire-baked clay. The fragility of the pots ensures both continual supply and demand, and they are used all over the island. In the last few years a foreign aid project within the village has set up a new sophisticated kiln and fully equipped studio where the youth of the village are trained in the application of glazes, opening up a complete new market in durable kiln-fired ceramic ware.

Alas Kedaton or "Holy Forest" is a small forest measuring about 12 hectare. On this forest is an old temple and to the south east of the temple is a small field called the monkey cemetery but so far the truth of the story has never been confirmed. There are hundreds of monkeys in this forest and high up on the big trees many bats are hanging and singing with their loud voices.

The Battle of Marga (Margarana), on 20 November 1946, goes down in the annals of Balinese history as the most valiant struggle against the Dutch during Bali’s many years of fighting for independence. The Hero of the occasion, Lt.Col. I Gusti Ngurah Rai, and his band of 94 Balinese fighters were killed to a man, after exhibiting brave resilience under bombardment from the air, surrounded by a Dutch force superior in both weaponry and numbers. A tall monument to this battle stands in quiet field at the village of Marga, a famous letter by Ngurah Rai, refusing to surrender unto death, inscribed upon it. Rows of stone date memorials to the soldiers lost in the battle field, and each year on the same date a memorial march and service are held there.

The road through central Bali over to the north coast reaches its highest point at the mountain resort of Bedugul. Suddenly the view opens up of sparkling Lake Bratan, lying serenely in the midst of an elongated valley which was formed centuries ago, crater of some primeval eruption. Forest clad hills back the lake, and on one shore is a tiny boating resort, with canoes and speed boats available for trips on the lake. Perfect water-skiing conditions prevail here all year round.